The photo I started with was okay, but nothing particularly interesting. The exposure was good, but the real scene was more dramatic. I’ve tried to recreate that scene the way I saw it. And, admittedly, enhance it to the way I wish I had seen it.

Step One – Shadows/Highlights

Duplicate the photo layer. Photoshop doesn’t yet have the ability to have Shadows/Highlights as an Adjustment Layer, so I like to keep a backup of the original photo for fine-tuning later on.

To give it a bit more of an HDR look (which is how our eyes see), I used the Shadows/Highlights tool . I kept the settings subtle to just bring a bit more detail into the clouds and to brighten the dark areas of the road and trees.

Step Two – Darken the Sky

Ensure your foreground colour is set to Black (press D to reset the colours to their Defaults)

Now add a Gradient Adjustment Layer . Set the gradient to “Foreground to Transparent”. I want the gradient to be going from black at the top to transparent at the bottom, so I’ve ticked “Reverse”.

Set this Adjustment Layer to Soft Light blend mode and now we have a nice dark sky. A similar effect could have been done by using a Graduated Filter on the camera when taking the photo, but a) I like the control and fine-tuning this offers and b) I don’t have a graduated filter (at least not one that fits my main lens).

Step Three – Super-Sharpen

Finally, to give the image more impact, I used some super-sharpening. My preferred method of sharpening (everyone seems to have their own way) is using the High Pass filter.

To use this, I needed to first flatten the image into a new layer above all the others (Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E – a very useful shortcut!).

Then to Filters > Other (at the bottom) > High Pass. The amount depends on the size of your photo and the effect you want. A small number (0.5 or 1) is good for normal sharpening. But for this super-sharpening effect, I went with 50.

Now, you should have a mostly grayscale image with a bit of smudged colour. I prefer to keep it all grayscale, but sometimes the extra colour looks good. To remove the colour I use Ctrl+Shift+U.

Set this layer to Hard Light blend mode to see how it looks. Now, turn the layer off and on a few times to compare. The unsharpened version almost looks blurry by comparison! The difference is dramatic. Some people will like it, others might think it’s too much. You can (and I usually do) turn the opacity down to keep it subtle.

I don’t usually use that super-sharpening but for this photo it seemed to work well. The method also works well on more texture based photos.

In my original I used my vintage colour technique to adjust the colours further and tuned the opacity of layers to get it looking good to my eyes.

Hopefully this tutorial has given you a couple of new techniques to try out on your own photos. If you’ve used these techniques on one of your photos, I’d love to see what you have come up with – feel free to send me the link in the comments.

So the challenge is I attached a raw file of the shot…you go bananaz on it (by bananas I mean you go nuts w the lomo feel + light leak or whateva you feel like doing to the image)

This is a quick step-by-step of what I came up with.

Camera Raw

I started off with the original RAW CR2 image looking like the above image (mouse-over to see the final image). I almost always shoot in RAW (even with my little IXUS 70), so my work flow usually begins with Camera Raw.

These are the Camera Raw settings I settled on.

Click the icon above to download the Camera Raw settings file. You’ll need to put it into:

C:\Documents and Settings\YOUR USER NAME\Application Data\Adobe\CameraRaw\Settings

Above is the image straight from Camera Raw. Below is a little animated GIF showing the layers building up.

Photoshop Layers

You can see there are two texture layers, both grayscale and set to Soft Light blend mode. They are both scans from old books and paper I found, but there are plenty of old paper resources around.

The light leaks are described in my Light leaks tutorial. One is Hard Light blend mode, 60% fill, while the other is Linear Light, 51% fill. There are two in order to get the brightness up. It was really just trial and error to see what works. I like to use two layers and adjust them independently.

And finally, Curves. I have made tutorials on how to adjust Curves to get a vintage look for Photoshop and for GIMP.

When I made it, I was pleased with how it turned out. So I saved each layer separately and imported them in to After Effects to show how it worked: